A rock shoe's performance depends on the materials it's made out of and the way it's put together. Keep the following factors in mind as you start to compare different shoes:
Shoe height/cut - Ankle-high rock shoes provide extra support for your ankles and foot muscles. They also help protect your ankles from scrapes and scratches. Low-cut shoes provide less ankle support, but allow for more freedom of movement for high-angle smearing and other advanced climbing techniques.
Basic design - Slippers and shoes with hook-and-loop closures are easy to get on and off, which makes them perfect for bouldering and gym climbing (when you're in and out of your shoes frequently). Lace-up rock shoes provide a more snug and adjustable fit, and can be cinched up tight even after your shoes stretch (most rock shoes stretch slightly over time as a result of normal use).
Support/midsole stiffness - Stiff, supportive rock shoe soles protect your feet, make things easier on your foot muscles, and make it easier for you to stand on thin edges and holds. Stiff midsoles also limit shoe flex when you jam your feet into cracks and pockets, making things easier on your feet as you climb. Flexible midsoles allow you to "feel" the rock better so you can take advantage of small foot holds. More flexible soles also allow you to get as much rubber as possible on the rock, making steep-angle smearing easier.
Toe profile - A tapered, low-profile toe box will help you jam your shoe into smaller cracks and pockets. But it will be harder on your toes and less comfortable on longer climbs. Roomier toe boxes are more comfortable, and allow you to smear more effectively.
Last shape
A "last" is the general foot shape around which a rock shoe is built. Manufacturers create and use a number of lasts when building different shoes. But most fall into one of 2 basic categories:
Semi-flexed - Semi-flexed lasts (also known as traditional lasts) are based on the traditional, anatomical shape of the human foot. They tend to be far more comfortable than cambered lasts (below), which makes them popular with most climbers, especially beginners and intermediates.
Cambered - Cambered lasts are bent slightly downward toward the toes. This downward curve forces your toes to crimp down slightly for better edging and control. Cambered rock shoes are most appropriate for difficult routes and competitions when you need the very best performance and control. They can be pretty rough on your feet, though, which makes them a poor choice for general climbing and/or beginners.
Construction:
Slip-lasted - Slip-lasted rock shoes have thin midsoles and insoles, so they're flexible and sensitive. They help you "feel" the rock underfoot so you know where you're putting your feet. These thin soles also allow you to get onto and grip very small holds.
Board-lasted - Board-lasted boots are stiffer and more durable than slip-lasted models, stretching less and lasting longer. Board-lasted shoes can also be resoled more often than slip-lasted shoes. Their stiff midsoles provide added support and protection for excellent performance on small edges and long crack climbs.
